Set sail into history with Charles Darwin and the HMS Beagle—the voyage that redefined our understanding of life itself.

On December 27, 1831, the Royal Navy’s HMS Beagle set sail from Devonport, Plymouth, on a voyage destined to change the course of science forever. Aboard the vessel was a young naturalist, Charles Darwin, who would later use observations from this journey to develop his groundbreaking theory of evolution.

For time travellers with a penchant for adventure, Devonport offers a chance to witness the dawn of scientific discovery, surrounded by naval history and the excitement of an expedition that shaped the modern world.


Why Visit Devonport in December 1831?

Devonport is bustling with maritime energy as the HMS Beagle prepares to embark on its historic voyage. The docks are alive with the sounds of seafarers, shipbuilders, and supplies being loaded onto the sturdy brig. The town itself, with its Georgian architecture and naval pride, offers a fascinating glimpse into early 19th-century life. Plus, there’s the added thrill of spotting Darwin himself, nervously anticipating the journey that will make him a scientific legend.


When to Go: December 26–28, 1831

Arrive the day before the Beagle sets sail to soak in the pre-departure buzz and explore the shipyards. Stay through the 27th to witness the ship’s grand departure and imagine the adventures awaiting its crew.


Where to Stay

1. The King’s Arms Tavern

A classic inn offering warm fires, hearty meals, and the perfect place to overhear sailors’ tales of daring voyages.

2. A Georgian Boarding House

Stay in a modest yet comfortable room in town for an authentic taste of early 19th-century hospitality. Expect simple furnishings, good company, and plenty of tea.


What to Do

1. Witness the HMS Beagle’s Departure

Join the crowd at the docks as the ship sets sail. The sight of the Beagle cutting through the waters, its sails billowing in the winter breeze, is both majestic and bittersweet for those bidding farewell to loved ones.

2. Explore Devonport’s Naval Heritage

Visit the shipyards and hear the clanging of hammers as ships are built and repaired. Devonport is a hub of British naval power, and its shipbuilding prowess is on full display.

3. Walk Along the Plymouth Hoe

A short stroll from Devonport, the Hoe offers breathtaking views of Plymouth Sound, where the Beagle will soon disappear into the horizon.


What to Eat

1. Sailor’s Fare

Sample traditional seafarers’ provisions such as salted beef, hardtack biscuits, and ship’s grog. It’s a humble yet hearty nod to the crew’s rations.

2. Local Delights

Devonshire cream teas and fresh seafood are abundant in the area, offering a delicious way to celebrate your time-traveling escapade.


Fun Facts About the HMS Beagle Voyage

  • Darwin’s Role: At just 22 years old, Charles Darwin joined the expedition as the ship’s naturalist, tasked with collecting specimens and making observations.
  • A Five-Year Journey: The Beagle’s mission lasted nearly five years, with Darwin exploring South America, the Galápagos Islands, Australia, and beyond.
  • The Mission’s Goal: Officially, the voyage was intended to chart the coasts of South America, but Darwin’s observations led to far greater discoveries.
  • A Sea-Sick Scientist: Darwin struggled with seasickness throughout the voyage, proving that even geniuses have their challenges.

Survival Tips for Time Travellers

  1. Dress for the Occasion: 19th-century attire will help you blend in with the sailors and townsfolk. A wool coat and sturdy boots are essential for winter.
  2. Be Prepared for Crowds: The Beagle’s departure is a major event, so arrive early to secure a good vantage point at the docks.
  3. Learn Some Nautical Terms: Impress locals with your knowledge of “mizzenmasts” and “bowsprits.” It’ll make you sound like a seasoned sailor.
  4. Watch Out for Darwin: If you spot a young man with a notebook and a faraway look in his eye, you’ve likely found the future father of evolution.

Why This Moment Matters

The departure of the HMS Beagle marks a turning point in the history of science. Darwin’s observations during the voyage formed the foundation for his theory of natural selection, revolutionising biology and altering humanity’s understanding of its place in the natural world. For history and science enthusiasts, this moment offers a ringside seat to the birth of a paradigm shift.


Want to Know More?

Further Reading:

  • The Voyage of the Beagle by Charles Darwin
  • Darwin and the Beagle by Alan Moorehead
  • On the Origin of Species by Charles Darwin

Online Resources:


Final Thoughts

Devonport in December 1831 offers more than just a maritime spectacle—it’s the starting point of a journey that changed the course of science. Witnessing the HMS Beagle set sail with Charles Darwin aboard is a chance to stand at the crossroads of adventure and discovery, surrounded by the sights, sounds, and spirit of early 19th-century exploration.

Pack your spyglass and your curiosity. Devonport—and the voyage of a lifetime—await!

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