In the heart of Orkney’s capital, Kirkwall, there’s a New Year tradition that’s part sporting event, part battlefield, and entirely bonkers. The Kirkwall Ba is a rough-and-tumble game played in the streets, pitting teams of Uppies and Doonies against each other in a centuries-old test of strength, strategy, and survival. Forget fireworks and resolutions—this is how you really welcome a New Year.
What Is the Kirkwall Ba?
At its core, the Kirkwall Ba is a mass ball game played on Christmas Day and New Year’s Day. It begins at the Kirk Green, outside St Magnus Cathedral, when the Ba (a leather ball stuffed with cork) is ceremoniously thrown into the air at 1 PM. From there, chaos reigns.
The aim? To carry the Ba to a designated goal, but it’s not as simple as it sounds. The teams—the Uppies and Doonies—represent different parts of the town. Historically, the Uppies were from the landward side of Kirkwall, while the Doonies hailed from the seaward side. These days, allegiance is often decided by family tradition or which side of the town you feel most connected to.
The Game Plan (Or Lack Thereof)
Once the Ba is in play, the streets of Kirkwall become a human chessboard—if chess involved shoving, scrums, and the occasional tactical detour through someone’s garden. There are no strict rules, and players can number in the hundreds.
- Uppies aim to get the Ba to the southern edge of the town, often using walls and narrow lanes to their advantage.
- Doonies strive to take the Ba to the harbour, utilising the twists and turns of Kirkwall’s streets to confuse their opponents.
Victory is declared when a team successfully reaches their goal, but getting there can take hours. And yes, it’s as exhausting as it sounds.
A Tradition Older Than Time
The origins of the Ba are shrouded in mystery, but it’s widely believed to date back to at least the 17th century, possibly earlier. Some suggest it evolved from Viking games or medieval traditions of playing ball during festivals. What’s certain is that the Ba has been an integral part of Kirkwall’s community for centuries, passed down through generations like a family heirloom—albeit a slightly battered one.
The Ba Ball Itself
Let’s talk about the star of the show: the Ba. It’s a handcrafted leather ball, decorated with intricate designs that often commemorate significant local events or people. There are two sizes—one for the Christmas Ba and another, slightly larger one, for New Year’s Day.
After the game, the victorious team keeps the Ba as a trophy. It’s a coveted prize, and some households in Kirkwall proudly display multiple Bas, showcasing years of dedication (and bruises).
Spectator Tips
If you’re planning to witness the Kirkwall Ba, here’s what you need to know:
- Stay Safe: The Ba may look like fun, but those scrums are serious business. Stand clear unless you’re willing to become part of the action.
- Dress Warmly: Kirkwall in winter isn’t exactly balmy. Bundle up and wear sturdy boots—you’ll be on your feet for a while.
- Expect the Unexpected: The game’s unpredictable nature is half the charm. The Ba might pass you by in a blur or linger in one spot for an hour.
Why the Kirkwall Ba Matters
In a world increasingly dominated by modern technology and globalised traditions, the Ba is a glorious throwback to simpler times. It’s messy, it’s physical, and it’s wonderfully uncommercialised. More than just a game, it’s a celebration of community spirit, local pride, and the joy of coming together—quite literally.
The Final Whistle
The Kirkwall Ba isn’t for the faint-hearted, but it’s a spectacle like no other. Whether you’re cheering from the sidelines or daring to take part, it’s an unforgettable way to connect with history and experience one of Scotland’s most unique traditions.
So, this New Year’s Day, while others are nursing their heads and breaking resolutions, the people of Kirkwall will be out in the streets, wrestling for glory. And honestly, isn’t that just a little more exciting than yet another round of “Auld Lang Syne”?
Have you ever witnessed—or participated in—the Kirkwall Ba? Share your stories with us (once you’ve recovered, of course)!
