There are Bonfire Night celebrations, and then there’s Ottery St Mary’s Tar Barrels. Held every 5 November in a small Devon town, this isn’t your average Guy Fawkes night with bonfires and sparklers. Instead, locals don thick gloves, hoist flaming barrels of tar onto their shoulders, and sprint down the streets, surrounded by cheering crowds. It’s ancient, it’s thrilling, and it’s exactly as wild as it sounds. Let’s dive into one of Britain’s most blazing – and baffling – traditions.
The Tradition: Fire on the Shoulders
The Ottery St Mary Tar Barrels event has roots going back hundreds of years. While no one’s entirely sure when it began, it’s believed to have started as a pagan ritual to ward off evil spirits. When the Gunpowder Plot came along in 1605, it conveniently merged with Bonfire Night, giving locals an extra excuse to keep the flames alive. Today, the tar barrels are a fixture of local pride, with generations of Ottery families passing down the torch (sometimes literally) from one generation to the next.
On the night of 5 November, barrels are filled with tar, set alight, and then shouldered by locals who proceed to run through the streets, manoeuvring their way through the crowd. And these aren’t just any barrels – they’re the real deal, made from thick wood and doused in tar, each weighing around 30 kilograms or more. Picture a flaming keg, with the added challenge of a shoulder-mounted balancing act. Safety tips? You’d think “don’t carry flaming barrels on your back” would top the list, but that’s not how they do things in Ottery St Mary.
Who Gets to Carry the Barrels?
Not just anyone can walk in and try their hand at tar-barrel racing. You’ve got to be a local – ideally, from a family with a long history in Ottery St Mary – and approved by the event organisers. This tradition is passed down through the generations, with barrel-carrying families taking their turns each year. There are different barrel categories, from juniors for the youngsters to the full-size barrels for the pros. While the youngest participants start small, by adulthood, they’re lifting full-sized barrels, proving that fiery determination really does run in the blood here.
There’s also a bit of a pecking order: the lighter barrels are carried earlier in the evening by children and teenagers, while the massive flaming monsters are saved for the grown-ups later on. Each barrel is assigned to a particular pub in town, so it’s a bit of friendly competition to see which pub’s carrier has the fastest feet and the strongest shoulders.
How Does It Work?
The event kicks off in the early evening with smaller barrels for the young ’uns, gradually building up to the main event where the larger, flaming barrels are lifted and carried by adults. A barrel is lit, and the chosen carrier quickly hoists it onto their shoulders, then races through the crowd, zigzagging and bobbing to avoid the throng of spectators. When one carrier tires, another steps in, and the fiery relay continues until the barrel is reduced to embers. If you’re wondering about health and safety, let’s just say that Ottery St Mary has its own philosophy – it’s all about courage, tradition, and well-placed barrels of sand to put out fires in a pinch.
What’s unique about Ottery St Mary is that there’s no fenced-off course or safely separated viewing area. Spectators crowd the streets, creating an almost gladiatorial atmosphere as the barrel carriers navigate around them. Want a front-row seat? Just be ready to hop out of the way when a flaming barrel comes your way.
The Charm and Danger of Ottery St Mary
Make no mistake – Ottery St Mary Tar Barrels is not for the faint-hearted. It’s chaotic, it’s smoky, and it’s as close to an adrenaline rush as you’ll find at any English folk event. But that’s all part of the charm. For Ottery locals, it’s a cherished tradition, something that brings the whole community together in a way that few events can. Sure, it’s risky – but with careful preparation and seasoned carriers who know how to handle the heat, Ottery St Mary keeps the barrels rolling year after year.
Despite its danger, this event draws in massive crowds from all over the world. Each year, visitors brave the crush of the crowd and the flickering heat to witness the spectacle. If you’re in the mood for a Bonfire Night with a difference – and don’t mind a bit of ash on your jacket – Ottery St Mary delivers an experience that’s unforgettable.
The Rules of Engagement
- Be Aware of Your Surroundings – If you’re watching, stay alert. The carriers have a set route, but it’s a winding one, and a flaming barrel can change direction without much notice. Don’t turn your back on a barrel – it’s best to keep your eyes on the action.
- Stay Clear of the Barrel Carriers – They know what they’re doing, but these barrels are heavy, flaming, and extremely hot. Give the carriers space and avoid getting too close.
- Embrace the Smoke and Soot – This isn’t a clean event. Be prepared to smell like a bonfire for a few days, and wear clothes that can handle a bit of soot. Consider it a badge of honour.
- Expect a Crowd – The streets of Ottery St Mary get packed, so if you want a prime viewing spot, get there early. And once you’re in the crowd, be prepared to stay put for a while.
What Else to See and Do
Ottery St Mary goes all-out for Bonfire Night, and the Tar Barrels aren’t the only spectacle in town. Alongside the flaming barrels, there’s a massive fireworks display, as well as a bonfire that would make Guy Fawkes proud. Wander the streets to find local stalls selling food, drink, and some of the best treacle toffee you’ll ever taste. The town also hosts a funfair for those looking for a less fiery kind of thrill, with games, rides, and all the carnival food you could want.
This is also the perfect time to explore Ottery St Mary itself. This charming Devonshire town has a historic appeal, complete with 14th-century architecture and the atmospheric Otter River running through it. So, if you need a break from the flames, there’s plenty of history and beauty to soak up.
Keeping the Tradition Alive
The Ottery St Mary Tar Barrels may look like pure chaos to an outsider, but it’s a tradition steeped in history, carried out by locals who respect the gravity of their role. For them, it’s about preserving a centuries-old legacy, building a sense of community, and creating memories that are truly unforgettable. The flaming barrels are more than just a spectacle – they’re part of Ottery’s identity, a fiery reminder of the town’s resilience and spirit.
So, if you’re looking to experience Bonfire Night in a way that’s a little less “suburban fireworks display” and a lot more “medieval festival of fire,” head to Ottery St Mary. Just remember to pack a scarf, stay on your toes, and keep a safe distance from those burning barrels. This is one festival that’s sure to warm your heart – and possibly singe your eyebrows.
