Witness the end of an era as King Henry I of England succumbs to a most curious culinary mishap, setting the stage for chaos in medieval England
On December 1, 1135, King Henry I of England died in Lyons-la-Forêt, Normandy, after falling ill from an overindulgence of lampreys—a favourite dish of the time. His death marked the end of a relatively stable reign and the beginning of a turbulent period in English history known as The Anarchy. A weekend in Lyons-la-Forêt offers the chance to experience the calm before this political storm, explore the Norman town where this pivotal event unfolded, and indulge (responsibly) in the culinary tastes of the 12th century.
Why Visit Lyons-la-Forêt in December 1135?
Lyons-la-Forêt is a charming Norman town nestled in the heart of a lush forest. In December 1135, it’s the backdrop for a momentous event: the death of Henry I, which left England in a precarious position of disputed succession. While the political implications of his death are immense, the town itself offers a quiet, scenic escape for time travellers who enjoy a mix of history, intrigue, and medieval hospitality.
This weekend combines historical drama with the serenity of rural Normandy, creating an unforgettable journey into the heart of medieval Europe.
When to Go: November 30–December 2, 1135
Arrive on November 30th to soak in the wintery beauty of Lyons-la-Forêt and catch the first whispers of King Henry I’s condition. On December 1st, witness the aftermath of his death and the stirrings of political tension. Use December 2nd to explore the surrounding forest and reflect on the dramatic turn of events.
Where to Stay
1. A Nobleman’s Manor
For the full medieval experience, stay in a local lord’s manor house. The accommodations might be sparse by modern standards, but the roaring hearth and hearty food make up for it.
2. An Inn by the Forest
Opt for a more modest stay in a cosy inn near the forest. You’ll find simple but warm lodgings, perfect for unwinding after a day of political gossip and Norman sightseeing.
What to Do
1. Visit the Site of Henry I’s Death
Make your way to the residence where Henry I spent his final moments. While the atmosphere is understandably sombre, the significance of this moment in English history is palpable.
2. Explore Lyons-la-Forêt
Stroll through the town’s medieval streets, lined with timber-framed houses and small market stalls. Engage with the locals to hear their thoughts on the king’s sudden demise.
3. Walk in the Forest of Lyons
This vast forest is perfect for a contemplative walk, especially as the political ramifications of Henry’s death begin to unfold. Keep an eye out for wildlife and enjoy the tranquil beauty of the Norman countryside.
4. Indulge in Medieval Cuisine
Sample Norman dishes inspired by King Henry I’s last meal (but perhaps avoid the lampreys). The local fare includes roasted meats, fresh bread, and plenty of cider to warm the chill of December.
Where to Eat
1. The Royal Banquet Hall
Enjoy a feast fit for a king—literally. While Henry I may have overdone it with the lampreys, you can savour a more balanced meal of roasted game, stews, and spiced wine.
2. A Local Tavern
Stop by a tavern for simpler fare, such as bread, cheese, and ale. The convivial atmosphere is ideal for picking up the latest gossip about the succession crisis brewing across the Channel.
Survival Tips for Time Travellers
- Dress Appropriately: Wear woollen tunics and cloaks to stay warm in the chilly Norman winter. Add a belt and boots to complete your medieval look.
- Tread Carefully Around Politics: The succession crisis is a sensitive topic. Henry I named his daughter Matilda as heir, but her cousin Stephen of Blois is already positioning himself for a claim to the throne. Avoid taking sides in public.
- Mind the Forest: The Forest of Lyons is beautiful but dense. Stay on well-trodden paths to avoid getting lost—or encountering less-than-friendly wildlife.
- Avoid Overindulgence: Learn from Henry I’s mistake. Enjoy the food, but don’t let your enthusiasm for medieval delicacies lead to your own untimely end.
Why This Weekend Matters
Henry I’s death on December 1, 1135, set in motion one of the most chaotic periods in English history. His decision to name his daughter Matilda as his successor was groundbreaking but controversial, leading to a bitter civil war known as The Anarchy. This conflict between Matilda and Stephen of Blois would last nearly two decades, shaping the political landscape of England and influencing the development of its monarchy.
For students of history, this weekend offers a firsthand look at the moment the seeds of this conflict were sown.
Want to Know More?
Further Reading:
- The Norman Conquest by Marc Morris
- The Plantagenets: The Warrior Kings and Queens Who Made England by Dan Jones
- Henry I: King of England and Duke of Normandy by Judith Green
Primary Sources:
- The Anglo-Saxon Chronicle (entries for 1135)
- William of Malmesbury’s Historia Novella
- Chronicles of Orderic Vitalis
Online Resources:
- The Norman Invasion and Its Legacy: www.britishmuseum.org
- History of the Anarchy: www.historyextra.com
Final Thoughts
Lyons-la-Forêt, December 1135, is a picturesque yet pivotal destination for any time traveller. Witness the death of a king, the spark of a succession crisis, and the quiet beauty of Normandy in winter. This weekend offers a rare blend of political intrigue, natural splendour, and culinary exploration.
Pack your wool cloak and an appetite for history. Henry I—and the unfolding drama of The Anarchy—await!
