Grab your helmets and brace yourselves, time travellers, because we’re venturing north to the rugged Shetland Islands for Lerwick’s Up Helly Aa, the largest Viking fire festival in Europe. Held annually on the last Tuesday of January, this fiery extravaganza is a spectacular blend of history, pageantry, and good old-fashioned Shetland revelry.
If you’ve ever dreamed of marching through the streets as part of a Viking horde or watching a replica longship go up in flames, this is your chance. Lerwick’s Up Helly Aa offers all the drama of a Norse saga, with none of the risk of being raided (probably).
What Is Up Helly Aa?
Up Helly Aa is a modern celebration of Shetland’s Viking heritage, featuring torchlit processions, flamboyant costumes, and the ceremonial burning of a Viking longship. While it feels ancient, the festival actually began in the late 19th century, evolving from a raucous Yule tradition into the structured spectacle it is today.
At its heart is the Jarl Squad, a band of men (and now, in some locations, women) who don Viking garb and lead the festivities, embodying the spirit of Norse warriors. The festival is a testament to Shetland’s unique blend of Scottish and Scandinavian influences.
Why Visit Lerwick in January?
January in Lerwick may be cold and dark, but that’s precisely what makes Up Helly Aa so magical. The long nights provide the perfect backdrop for blazing torches and the dramatic glow of a burning longship. Plus, the Shetland hospitality is guaranteed to warm even the frostiest of fingers.
Whether you’re a history buff, a fire enthusiast, or just in it for the Viking selfies, Lerwick in late January is the ultimate time-travel destination.
Your Festival Itinerary
Day 1: Explore Lerwick’s Viking Heritage
Start your adventure at the Shetland Museum and Archives, where you’ll find exhibits on Shetland’s Viking past and the origins of Up Helly Aa. Learn about the islands’ Norse settlers, their seafaring prowess, and their enduring influence on Shetland culture.
Next, take a walk through Lerwick’s historic streets, soaking up the maritime charm of this northern outpost. Stop at a local café for a warming bowl of reestit mutton soup, a Shetland specialty that will keep you fuelled for the day’s festivities.
Day 2: Up Helly Aa Festivities
The main event begins with the Guizer Jarl, the leader of the Jarl Squad, leading his Viking warriors in a torchlit procession through the streets. It’s a mesmerising sight: hundreds of guizers (participants) carrying flaming torches, singing traditional songs, and marching with military precision.
The procession culminates with the dramatic burning of a replica Viking longship, symbolising Shetland’s farewell to winter and a nod to Norse funeral rites. The flames light up the dark Shetland sky, creating an unforgettable spectacle.
After the ship-burning, the party moves indoors for a series of hall events, where the guizers perform skits, dance, and feast until the early hours. Visitors are welcome to join the celebrations, so don’t forget your dancing shoes (or sturdy Viking boots).
Fun Facts About Up Helly Aa
- Did you know? The Jarl Squad’s costumes are meticulously designed each year, often inspired by real Viking artefacts or mythology.
- Odd but true: The festival includes over 900 torches, all handmade by the participants. That’s a lot of firepower!
- Legacy: While Lerwick’s Up Helly Aa is the most famous, smaller versions of the festival are held in other Shetland towns and villages.
Travel Tips for Up Helly Aa
- Layer Up: January in the Shetlands is brisk, so dress warmly. A faux fur-lined cloak wouldn’t look out of place.
- Arrive Early: Lerwick gets busy during Up Helly Aa, so book your accommodation well in advance.
- Join the Fun: While the Jarl Squad is invitation-only, many of the evening’s events are open to visitors. Embrace the Viking spirit and mingle with the locals!
What’s on the Menu?
Fuel your Viking adventures with these Shetland delicacies:
- Reestit Mutton: Salted, dried mutton that’s a winter staple.
- Bannocks: Traditional flatbreads perfect for pairing with local butter.
- Shetland Black Potatoes: Hearty and full of flavour, these are a must-try.
Want to Know More?
Books
- Shetland: Viking Heritage Explored by Frances A. Wilkins.
- The Last Viking: The Life of Roald Amundsen by Stephen R. Bown (for Viking inspiration).
Articles
- “The Fire Festivals of the Shetlands” in BBC History Magazine.
- “How Up Helly Aa Became a Cultural Phenomenon” by the Shetland Times.
Web Resources
- Shetland Tourism: www.shetland.org
- Up Helly Aa Official Site: www.uphellyaa.org
The Final Word
Lerwick’s Up Helly Aa is more than a festival—it’s a fiery celebration of Shetland’s Viking past, a feast for the senses, and an opportunity to embrace your inner Norse warrior. Whether you’re mesmerised by the torchlit procession, warmed by local hospitality, or dancing into the early hours, this festival is an experience like no other.
Have you marched with Vikings or watched a longship go up in flames? Share your tales—we’ll toast your adventures with a bowl of reestit mutton soup and a hearty “Skål!”
