Step into Orkney’s ultimate Christmas and New Year’s brawl—where the only thing more chaotic than the game is figuring out who’s winning.
Welcome to Kirkwall, the capital of Orkney, where centuries of tradition collide in one of Scotland’s most eccentric sporting events: the Kirkwall Ba’. Played on Christmas Day and New Year’s Day, this riotous game transforms the town’s narrow streets into a battlefield of epic proportions, with two teams, one ball, and absolutely no holds barred.
What is the Kirkwall Ba’?
At its core, the Ba’ is a traditional street football game with roots that stretch back to the medieval period. Played between the “Uppies” and the “Doonies”—teams defined by whether players hail from the upper or lower parts of Kirkwall—the goal is deceptively simple: get the ball to your team’s “hail” (goal). For the Uppies, that’s a wall at the south end of the town; for the Doonies, it’s the harbour.
But don’t be fooled by this straightforward objective. The Ba’ is a sprawling, chaotic scrum involving hundreds of players (and occasionally spectators), all vying for control of a single, hand-crafted leather ball. It’s part sport, part spectacle, and all mayhem.
Why Visit Kirkwall for the Ba’?
Kirkwall in winter is a town brimming with Viking heritage, rugged charm, and a community spirit that’s as fierce as the North Sea winds. The Ba’ is more than just a game—it’s a living tradition that embodies the islanders’ resilience, camaraderie, and love of good-natured competition. Plus, it’s a fantastic excuse to explore Orkney’s stunning landscapes and warm up with a dram of whisky after watching (or joining!) the action.
When to Go: Christmas or New Year’s Day
The Ba’ kicks off around 1 pm on both December 25th and January 1st. Arrive a day or two early to soak in Kirkwall’s festive atmosphere and explore its rich history before diving into the excitement.
Where to Stay
1. The Orkney Hotel
This charming hotel offers comfortable rooms, hearty meals, and a central location perfect for watching—or recovering from—the Ba’.
2. A Local B&B
Stay with a friendly Orkney host for a cosy, authentic experience. Many B&Bs are within walking distance of Kirkwall’s historic centre.
What to Do
1. Witness the Ba’ in Action
Find a spot on Broad Street or Albert Street, Kirkwall’s main thoroughfares, to watch the game unfold. Be prepared for a spectacle of pushing, shoving, and strategic chaos.
2. Explore St Magnus Cathedral
Before or after the game, visit this stunning 12th-century cathedral. Its serene beauty provides a stark (and welcome) contrast to the Ba’s intensity.
3. Visit the Orkney Distillery
Warm up with a tour of this local gin and whisky distillery. Their expertly crafted spirits are the perfect toast to a day of island adventure.
4. Stroll Along Kirkwall Harbour
If the Doonies win, their celebrations often spill into the harbour. Take a walk to see the victory unfold—or console the defeated Uppies.
What to Eat
1. A Post-Ba’ Feast at Helgi’s
This cosy pub serves up hearty Orkney fare, including fresh seafood, stews, and locally brewed ales. It’s the perfect spot to dissect the day’s game with fellow spectators.
2. A Market Snack
Grab a warm pastry or a slice of traditional Orkney fudge from a local shop before heading to the game.
Fun Facts About the Kirkwall Ba’
- A Ball with Tradition: Each Ba’ ball is handcrafted and awarded to the game’s final scorer as a trophy.
- Women’s Ba’: A less frequent but equally lively Women’s Ba’ is sometimes played, showcasing the same competitive spirit.
- Centuries of Chaos: The game is thought to date back to the Viking Age, making it one of the oldest continuously played traditions in Scotland.
- A Team by Birth: You don’t just pick a side—your allegiance is determined by family and birthplace. Once an Uppie or Doonie, always an Uppie or Doonie.
Survival Tips for Time Travellers
- Stay Out of the Scrum: Unless you’re ready to throw yourself into the chaos, keep a safe distance from the heart of the action. The Ba’ is as physical as it is thrilling.
- Dress for the Weather: Orkney in winter is cold and windy. Layer up with warm clothes, waterproofs, and sturdy boots.
- Mind Your Belongings: The scrum often spills into shops and doorways. Keep your valuables close and avoid standing in obvious pinch points.
- Join the Afterparty: Whether your team wins or loses, the post-Ba’ celebrations in Kirkwall’s pubs are not to be missed.
Why This Tradition Matters
The Kirkwall Ba’ is more than just a game—it’s a living piece of Orkney’s heritage. It brings the community together, honours the island’s Viking roots, and keeps a centuries-old tradition alive in a world that’s often too quick to let go of its past. For time travellers, it’s a chance to witness history in motion, complete with scrums, cheers, and the occasional flying player.
Want to Know More?
Further Reading:
- Scottish Customs from the Cradle to the Grave by Margaret Bennett
- The Lore of Scotland: A Guide to Scottish Legends by Westwood & Kingshill
- The Spirit of Orkney by Ernest Marwick
Online Resources:
- Visit Orkney: www.visitorkney.com
- Orkney Folklore and Traditions: www.orkneyjar.com
Final Thoughts
If you’re seeking an unforgettable Christmas or New Year’s adventure, look no further than Kirkwall and its Ba’ game. It’s a tradition where history and festivity collide in the most wonderfully chaotic way imaginable.
Pack your warmest coat, your team spirit, and maybe a helmet. Kirkwall—and its legendary Ba’—await!
