Date: June 30th
Category: Vintage Travel | Curious Coastlines | Antique Guidebook Series
And so, we come to the last entry in our journey through the 1957 British Railways Holiday Guide — and what an unexpected finale it is.
Dungeness.
A place so peculiar, so starkly beautiful, that even in 1957 it was described as:
“A resort for the contemplative traveller… Not suitable for children of excitable temperament.”
Yes. That’s an actual quote from the guide. Naturally, we couldn’t resist.
So we boarded the miniature train, packed a flask of tea, and set off into Britain’s only official desert.
📍 Dungeness – Then & Now
Then (1957):
- Accessible via the Romney, Hythe & Dymchurch Railway — a one-third scale steam line still running today
- Known for its bleak beauty, shingle landscape, and eccentric residents
- Home to two lighthouses, a pub, and a scattering of fishermen’s huts
Now (2025):
- Still accessible by miniature railway (which is worth the journey on its own)
- Still bleak, beautiful, and oddly peaceful
- Now dotted with artist cabins, eco-homes, and the famed Prospect Cottage — once home to filmmaker and gardener Derek Jarman
✅ Verdict: Like nowhere else in England. Not everyone’s cup of tea — but a must-visit for the melancholic, curious, and creatively inclined.
🛤️ The Journey There
From Camber Sands, we followed the 1957 route:
- Bus to New Romney
- Miniature train to Dungeness
- A slow, clattering, joyful ride past sheep fields, marshes, and big skies
The train runs on 15-inch gauge track, with lovingly restored engines and volunteers in period uniforms. It’s like stepping into a Hornby set, except real and full of seagulls.
🏚️ What to See, 1957 Style
“One may explore the shingle with care and reflection. The lighthouses offer fine views for those untroubled by heights. Excursion refreshments may be taken, though one is advised to prepare provisions.”
Our guidebook wasn’t joking. Dungeness is not a candyfloss-and-dodgems kind of seaside.
We:
- Climbed the Old Lighthouse (1904), which offers dizzying views of the coast and power station
- Visited Prospect Cottage, where Jarman’s poetry still whispers through the garden
- Walked the shingle in respectful silence, accompanied only by the wind and the soft groan of the tide
🍽️ Dining, Sort Of
“Provisioning in Dungeness is variable. Picnic is preferred.”
Absolutely accurate. We brought:
- Sandwiches
- A flask of strong black tea
- A tin of sardines (in honour of the 1950s coastal diet)
- One rogue Bakewell tart (not period-accurate, but emotionally essential)
The only local dining option was a fish shack in a converted boat shed. It was perfect.
📚 Want to Know More?
- Modern Nature by Derek Jarman
- Coastal Curiosities: Unusual Seaside Britain by Tom Quinn
- Railways in Miniature: The Romney, Hythe & Dymchurch Story by Peter Bryant
- Romney, Hythe & Dymchurch Railway
💬 Your Dungeness Dispatches: #1957SeasideSpecial
Have you made the journey to Dungeness? Walked the shingle with purpose? Taken the train that’s smaller than your garden shed?
Tag @TimeTravellersGuild and use #1957SeasideSpecial — we’ll wrap up the month with your best vintage snaps, modern musings, and shingle-side stories.
